Beginner perfumer · 40
I run a nursery — can I grow my own perfume? The bottleneck isn't the flowers, it's the 95%
· 30 min read
Someone running a plant nursery asked r/DIYfragrance whether they could make perfume from plants they grew. The top reply said 100 kg of lavender flowers yields 0.5 to 1.5 kg of essential oil. That figure holds up: a 2022 study measured 1.2% yield for lavender at 100 minutes of hydro/steam distillation, and a 2021 study measured 2.0 to 3.8% for lavandin. But converted into one 50 mL bottle of perfume, the flowers needed come to 35 grams — one lavender plant covers it. The real bottleneck is elsewhere. Across 954 published formulas, the median formula is 95.1% single chemicals by weight, distillable essential oils account for 3.5%, and 312 formulas contain no essential oil at all.
A post on r/DIYfragrance came from someone holding a resource most people don't have:
"Hi all — I run a plant nursery and am interested in trying to combine my plant knowledge with my interest in perfumery. Are any of y'all on this sub making natural perfumes using essential oils from plants you've grown?"
The top reply (12 points) answered with a number:
"Not really the best idea to work directly with plants to essential oils to perfumery — takes 100kg of lavender FLOWERS to get .5-1.5 kg of essential oil. Depends on the variety, but it's .5-3% yield for weight. You can see how that can cause problems — if you want to do the right amount of notes, all of your space will be herbal." (mallowgirl)
The poster's reply was clean: "Exactly the answer I was looking for. Harsh truth but I didn't post this question to have my ego stroked anyway."
That 0.5% to 3% can be checked. Checking it did not confirm what I expected it to confirm.
The short version
- The yield figure is right. A 2022 study measured hydro/steam distillation of Lavandula angustifolia at 1.2% after 100 minutes. A 2021 study of lavandin on the Yun-Gui Plateau measured 2.0% to 3.8% across seasons. mallowgirl's range covers both measurements.
- But converted into a bottle of perfume, the flower requirement is too small to be the bottleneck. A 50 mL EDP at 20% holds about 8.7 g of concentrate. At the corpus median dose for lavender oil of 6.06%, that is 0.53 g of lavender oil. Back out at a 1.5% yield and you need 35 g of flowers. A single lavender plant flowers well past that.
- The real bottleneck is a proportion nobody in the thread computed. Across 954 published formulas, the median formula is 95.1% single chemicals by weight; distillable essential oils account for 3.5%.
- 312 formulas (32.7%) contain no essential oil at any point.
- And it is not one plant you would grow. The corpus contains 290 distinct essential oils. The most used are patchouli, bergamot, ylang ylang, sandalwood. That is a world map, not a nursery.
- Another reply (beraelen) said you cannot calculate safe usage levels for homemade extractions without sending every batch for GC-MS. That holds up: in the 2021 study, the same lavandin ran eucalyptol from 38.7% to 49.8% across seasons, with linalool at only 4.6% to 12.5%.
The yield figure holds
First, check the forum number.
El-Kharraf's group in 2022 compared two distillation methods, one of them conventional simultaneous hydro- and steam-distillation:
| Plant | Conventional | CO2-assisted |
|---|---|---|
| Rosemary | 2.0% (120 min) | 2.8% (30 min) |
| Lavandula angustifolia | 1.2% (100 min) | 1.5% (28 min) |
| Oregano | 1.6% (60 min) | 1.7% (20 min) |
Liao's group in 2021 measured lavandin on the Yun-Gui Plateau at 2.0% to 3.8% across seasons, highest in summer.
So mallowgirl's 0.5%–3% is a reliable band; if anything the top could go a little higher. There is nothing in that forum number for me to correct.
But the number stops being frightening once converted
What made me stop was the conversion.
A 50 mL EDP, concentrate at 20%, perfume density around 0.87, holds about 8.7 g of concentrate. Lavender oil appears in 55 corpus formulas at a median 6.06%. So this bottle carries 0.53 g of lavender oil.
| Yield | Flowers needed |
|---|---|
| 0.5% (low) | 105 g |
| 1.5% (mid, near the measurements) | 35 g |
| 3% (high) | 18 g |
Thirty-five grams of flowers. A mature lavender plant produces far more than that in a season.
mallowgirl's "all of your space will be herbal" is correct at commercial scale, but the poster asked whether anyone was doing it, not whether it would pay. At the scale of one bottle for yourself, the flowers are not the bottleneck.
So what is?
The bottleneck is that 95.1%
I sorted the 2,381 materials across the 954 formulas into three classes by name alone. The rule is crude, and I am writing it out so you can judge it:
- Name contains
oil,essence,terpenes→ distillable essential oil (290 materials) - Name contains
absolute,concrete,resinoid,extract,tincture,resin,balsam,gum→ solvent extraction (103 materials) - Everything else → single chemical (1,988 materials)
Then the weight distribution per formula:
| Class | Median share | Interquartile | Mean |
|---|---|---|---|
| Distillable essential oil | 3.5% | 0.0%–16.7% | 11.9% |
| Solvent extraction | 0.0% | 0.0%–0.7% | 2.1% |
| Single chemicals | 95.1% | 80.0%–100.0% | 86.0% |
- Formulas with no essential oil at all: 312 (32.7%)
- Formulas that are more than half essential oil: 47 (4.9%)
For someone who runs a nursery, the column they can produce themselves is 3.5% of the median formula. The remaining 95.1% is not harder to make; it does not grow. Benzyl acetate, dihydromyrcenol, hedione, coumarin, ethylene brassylate — there is no plant for these.
This is why beraelen wrote that perfumers generally don't do their own distillation. The three reasons given (atrocious yields, many materials must be solvent-extracted, safe usage levels can't be calculated) all hold. But the corpus points at something upstream of all three: even if every distillation goes perfectly, you have reached 3.5% of the formula.
And what you'd grow is a world map
Suppose you decide to go after that 3.5% anyway. The corpus contains 290 distinct essential oils. Across the 642 formulas that use any oil, the median formula uses 2 different oils (interquartile 1 to 4; one formula uses 13).
The twelve most used:
| Essential oil | Formulas | Median share | Main origin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Patchouli oil | 132 | 3.50% | Indonesia |
| Bergamot oil, bergaptene reduced | 132 | 10.85% | Calabria, Italy |
| Ylang ylang oil | 113 | 2.33% | Comoros, Madagascar |
| Lemon oil | 66 | 4.86% | Mediterranean, Argentina |
| Sandalwood oil | 60 | 3.00% | India, Australia |
| Lavender oil | 55 | 6.06% | France, Bulgaria |
| Galbanum oil | 53 | 1.11% | Iran |
| Orange oil | 52 | 2.99% | Brazil |
| Geranium oil bourbon | 48 | 1.94% | Réunion, Egypt |
| Clove bud oil | 40 | 1.91% | Indonesia, Madagascar |
| Lavandin oil | 39 | 5.56% | France |
| Mandarin oil | 33 | 2.30% | Italy |
For a nursery in south Louisiana this table carries a blunt implication: almost nothing near the top is something you can grow. Lavender, yes. Geranium, yes. Clove somewhere hot enough. Patchouli, bergamot, ylang ylang, sandalwood and galbanum, no.
Another reply (Wise_Falcon20) gave a list that is more practical: lavandin, rosemary, caraway, coriander, dill, clove buds. High yield, easy to grow, not difficult to distil. The suggested use was as a homemade touch alongside commercial extracts and synthetics — which matches the shape of the corpus, since the part you can produce yourself was always going to be a single-digit percentage of the formula.
"You can't calculate safe usage levels" holds up
beraelen's line — that homemade extractions can't have safe usage levels calculated without GC-MS on every batch — sounds like excess caution. The 2021 study makes it concrete.
Liao's group harvested from the same lavandin planting on the Yun-Gui Plateau in four seasons, distilled each, and analysed by GC-MS:
| Constituent | Seasonal range |
|---|---|
| Total oxygenated monoterpenes | 55.4% – 81.4% |
| Eucalyptol | 38.7% – 49.8% |
| Camphor | 8.41% – 14.26% |
| α-bisabolol | 6.6% – 25.5% |
| Linalool | 4.6% – 12.5% |
A "lavender oil" that is 40 to 50% eucalyptol and under 10% linalool does not smell like anyone's idea of lavender. It goes towards eucalyptus. And this is not adulteration or a poor-quality product; it is the same field cut in a different season.
So "I distilled a bottle of lavender oil" tells nobody what is in the bottle. Commercial oils have an ISO specification and a supplier's batch analysis to check against. A homemade one does not. This is not to say homemade is dangerous; it is to say you cannot cite any usage guidance written in units of "lavender oil", because all of that guidance assumes something that meets a specification.
The 2022 paper adds one more angle: for the same plant, changing the distillation method changes the composition of what comes out — the CO2-assisted lavender oil was richer in linalyl acetate than the conventional one. The method ends up in the product.
The three best replies in the thread
The thread is high quality. Three suggestions are worth highlighting, because they route around the 3.5% limit instead of running into it.
One: hydrosols (mallowgirl). Steam condensing, startable on a home stove, requiring far less plant material than essential oil, and producing body mists, room sprays, or a component in lotions. The key point is that a hydrosol is not a failed essential oil; it is a different product, and its plant requirement sits inside a nursery's output.
Two: enfleurage (BeastofBurden, mallowgirl). Delicate blooms rest on a thin layer of fat, replaced frequently as the fat absorbs the volatiles. No heat, so the delicate volatile compounds don't break down. beraelen pointed out it is the most labour-intensive extraction method by far, and requires source material fresh, daily, for weeks — unrealistic for most people, but for a nursery with blooms every day the constraint inverts, since that is the one resource that comes easily.
BeastofBurden's numbers were 300 g of very fragrant flower over 20-30 days on 100 g of fat for a 0.5 g yield. I could not verify that (enfleurage yield literature is thin and heavily plant-dependent), so it is recorded here as a forum claim and not cited as fact.
Three: macerations as the base (mallowgirl). Not as a perfume in themselves, but as a replacement for perfumer's alcohol. Your formula already contains a great deal of alcohol; swapping that portion for something you made puts your plants into the product without touching the 95%. I think this is the smartest suggestion in the thread.
A practitioner (MikeofPDX) added an honest footnote: solvent extraction yields better than distillation, but pulls undesirable compounds including colour, waxes and fats, which have to be dealt with or accepted.
I was wrong about where this was going
When I started computing, I expected to write a piece arguing that the forum was too optimistic and you would really need a farm. The 100 kg figure pointed that way.
After 35 g came out, I rewrote the framing. At the scale of one bottle for personal use, flowers are simply not the problem, and I had taken a commercial-scale number and applied it to a personal-scale question. mallowgirl did not make that mistake — she said "if you want to do the right amount of notes", which is a statement about the formula, not about output. I read it as output.
The number worth computing was the one I only reached on the second pass: that 95.1%. It needs no paper; the corpus says it plainly, and it answers the poster's question better than any yield figure does.
The actual answer for the nursery owner
- Don't set "a whole bottle from plants I grew" as the goal. 95.1% of the median formula's weight will not grow, and that is not a technical problem.
- If you do it, flowers are not the bottleneck. A 50 mL batch needs tens of grams. The bottleneck is the still, the time, and not knowing what you made.
- The best direction on yield is Wise_Falcon20's list: lavandin, rosemary, coriander, dill, clove buds. Lavender is the only one that is both easy to grow and in the top twelve most-used oils.
- The genuinely scarce resource you hold is fresh blooms every day. That happens to be the only barrier to enfleurage. Other people can't do that; you can.
- Don't apply commercial usage guidance to a homemade oil. The same field across seasons can move eucalyptol by 11 points and linalool threefold.
- Swapping perfumer's alcohol for your own maceration is the best return on effort, because it doesn't fight the 95%.
What this doesn't establish
- The natural/synthetic classification is applied by name. Naturals whose names lack
oil(things recorded under a trade name, for instance) get counted as single chemicals, so 95.1% is an upper bound and the true value is somewhat lower. Conversely, anoilin the corpus may be a synthetic reconstitution. - The corpus is not the population of formulas. These 954 published formulas skew towards what gets published, and the natural perfumery community publishes formulas less often, so essential oil share may be understated here.
- Neither paper was run to answer this question. El-Kharraf's group was comparing distillation technologies; Liao's group was studying germplasm on the Yun-Gui Plateau. What I cite is the yield and composition ranges they measured along the way.
- Liao's study measured lavandin on the Yun-Gui Plateau, not Provençal L. angustifolia. The 38.7%–49.8% eucalyptol range cannot be transferred to other origins. It establishes that oils from one species can differ enormously, not that all lavender oil behaves this way.
- The enfleurage yield figure comes from a forum comment and is unverified.
- Cost, regulation and selling are entirely absent from this article. If the goal is to sell, that is a different set of problems.